Quick: Think of “bagels,” then tell me what you think of next. Cream cheese? Lox? New York?

OK, so you probably didn’t say “Canada,” did you?

But if you think that Canada is one vast, frozen-bagel wasteland, think again.

Among Canadians, Montreal is universally revered as the center of the country’s bagel universe, with perpetual rivals Fairmount Bagel and St-Viateur Bagel vying for top bagel honors. The Montreal bagel was even nominated as one of the Seven Wonders of Canada in a CBC contest (although it didn’t win out over Niagara Falls, the Rocky Mountains, or the igloo.)

Apparently, there’s now a “Montreal-style” bagel shop in Beverly Hills, St. Urbain Street Bagel. Unfortunately for homesick Montrealers, however, a recent Montreal Gazette article gripes that “The sight of a distinctive Canadian culinary item in the world’s most famous shopping district might be cause for pride. Except for one fact: The doughy confections for sale in Beverly Hills have as much resemblance to Montreal bagels as Velveeta does to cheddar.”

The article’s author Jeff Roberts, who writes about intellectual property issues for McGill University’s Centre for Intellectual Property Policy, uses this California abomination as an example of how Canada needs to do a better job at protecting its distinctive culinary products. In the same way that France protects the name Champagne, he argues, Canada should restrict the use of the Montreal bagel moniker.

If you’re just interested in eating bagels, though, rather than protecting them, head for Montreal. And even if you’re not in Montreal, it’s possible to get a decent Canadian bagel.

In Vancouver, our family favorite is Solly’s Bagels, but Siegel’s also has its fans. In Toronto, food and travel writer Amy Rosen (who blogs at The National Nosh) recommends St. Urbain Bagel, What a Bagel, and The Bagel House.

What’s your favorite Canadian bagel?

Photo ©Carolyn B. Heller